Thursday, December 4, 2014
These are the heat boxes for the left manifolds. I'm making enough for 3 motors. Because of the slight variations with hand forming the shells the boxes fit better on the original manifold (in the back) than on the ones I made.
After a little reshaping of the flanges they fit snug to the shell.
Monday, November 24, 2014
For the outlet end of the elbow I followed a similar process. I used the form block to mark the cut lines on the flanges.
To draw the cut line I started by using a straight edge to line up a block in the bottom of the opening so I could mark the bottom of the cut line.
I then cut off the scrap with the band saw like the inlet end, and ground the end square and smooth wit the belt sander. A little deburring and the end was done.
Sunday, November 23, 2014
I realized part way through that a red line was easier to see in the die hole than the pencil line I started with.
I could have used a supports for the shell while sawing. I was able to tip the shell for half the cut and support the flange with a block of wood for the other half of the cut.
To clean up the cut I just used the belt sander and deburred the edge.
They came out very good. They're starting to look like parts which could make the manifolds.
Wednesday, November 19, 2014
The next step is to trim the inlet and outlet ends.
Tuesday, November 18, 2014
The marking tool made a line which was easy to follow with the band saw, just outside the cut line.
For the outside curves the belt sander made it easy to grind to the line leaving a nice smooth curve.
I still have the inside curves to smooth up and then trim the ends.
Sunday, November 16, 2014
I've had a great idea for marking the trim line on the shells. It's kind of the reverse of scribing a line on a board with a marking gauge. Instead of the guide being on the scale, the guide is the rounded end of the block of wood.
For a scribe I used a coarse thread drywall screw. I drilled a hole at the distance for the flange on the lower shell and a hole 1/4" further out for flange on the top shell. The edge of the top shell wraps around the edge of the bottom shell to make a nice finished edge. You adjust the screw tip, for the line you want, to just stick out of the block. Run the block around the part leaving a nice even trim line.
Saturday, October 25, 2014
I used before. I hunted all over for a tall waste basket or something like it. I didn't want something as big as a 55 gallon drum, just to much water to deal with. My neighbor had a piece of 8" Schedule 40 PVC pipe which I cut to 36". Free is not always cheap. The cap cost me $45 even after the guy at the plumbing supply had pity on me and took off $10. Still I think it is perfect for what I'm doing and will last for ever.
My brother-in-law has a re-bar bender/cutter but a stout vise and large hammer will do.
In the long end of the bars I drilled a hole to bolt the bars in place and provide electrical connection. I also ground the area around the holes flat to get better contact. If needed I'll use star washers to improve the contact.
The current is low but the wire end with a 1/4" hole are for 10/12 gauge wire so I used a scrap of 10 gauge wire to connect them together and make a pigtail for attaching the battery charger. I used the red insulated wire to remind me the positive lead connects to the anodes,
After it set a day I mixed a little of the concrete with water to cap the the top of the bucket. I want it to shed water when I have it outdoors for use.
I think we're ready for some water, soda and parts cleaning.
Monday, September 29, 2014
de-rusting a propeller hub and then discovering it was a metric hub. I've just learned that this hub fits an engine from earlier in the First World War. It's for an 80 HP Le Rhone rotary motor. It does not fit the larger motors like the 110 HP version. It may fit the 60 HP version but I have not found data for the hub on it and they only made a few hundred of them.
A - Hub Shaft O.D. 60 mm (2.362")
C - Prop. Bolt Centerline Diameter 120 mm (4.724")
D - Hub Flange O.D. 150 mm (5.905")
E - Number of Bolts - 8
F - Dia. of Bolts - 10 mm (0.394")
The shaft is 42 mm O.D. at the nut end of the shaft.
The taper increases the diameter as a 10% cone.
The threaded end of the shaft (where the retaining nut screws on)
is threaded for 18 mm.
The thread has on O.D. of 40 mm and a pitch of 1.50 mm.
All of which says this hub works on an 80 HP Le Rhone. With magnetic inspection for cracks and fresh nickle plating it would be ready for use.
Some of the planes which used the 80 HP Le Rhone either as the primary or alternate motor were:
1913 - Morane-Saulier L
1913 - Morane-Saulier N
1914 - Nieuport 10
1915 - Nieuport 11 (Bebe)
1916 - Nieuport 21 (as trainers)
1914 - Bristol Scout C
1915 - Bristol Scout D
1915 - SPAD A-2
1916 - Sopwith Pup
1916 - Vickers F.B.12
1917 - Thomas-Morse S4c