I was so excited that the cutting operation worked and learning about any issues using the torch that I forgot to check that the guides were set square and adjusted to make the correct width opening. As a result I needed to do some filing to open the holes a little.
To make it easy I drew 18 degree guide lines on the top of the vise and then worked one end of the flange, flipped it over and worked on the other end.
I bought a cheap ($33)
Bandfile from Harbor Freight. It's a 1/2" wide belt sander. I used it to quickly cut down the steel.
With the ends close to size I used a 10" bastard file to finish them so my gauge block fit.
I made the block from a piece of 1/2" x 1" bar stock 1-7/8" long. I carefully ground the ends square so I could check both the size of the opening and, to make sure the ends were parallel and square to the sides.
The Bandfile had a small problem. The backing plate/guides for the belt were made of rubber and the cloth belt quickly ground them to dust. They were just glued on so I made new ones from 0.090" 4130 steel and super glued them on with a gel glue. I radiused the ends to save wear on the belt. They work great. The belts which came with it worked but were a little wimpy. They are 18" belts so I bought an 3" x 18" P60 Shop Smith Ceramic Belt and cut it into 1/2" strips, much better. You just cut the cloth belt on the inside with a knife with break-away blades. These are the same belts I like for metal work on the Shop Smith and they work great.
The Bandfile really helped clean up the sides since it's hard to hold them and do much filing.
I made a gauge 1/1/8" wide, 3/8" thick, with an 18 degree cut on the end to check the gap between the 2 angled sides.
When the gauge fits flush to the surface the gap is wide enough for the manifold to fit.
The flanges fit great on the manifold. Now I need to finish the fixture to hold the flanges in position while welding them to the manifold shell.
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